"I wanted to learn where the apple pie originated and when it was first served. I was a bit disheartened to learn it wasn’t created by a sweet little granny in one of the 13 colonies." Photo: Steve Russo
Farm and Table
"For the 4th of July, I needed a recipe that screamed A-M-E-R-I-C-A. I was feverishly searching for the edible version of Uncle Sam, for crying out loud!
by Steve Russo
Posted on July 2, 2021
As someone who has worked in the meat industry, on and off, for close to a decade, my first instinct was to stay in my comfort zone and do an article about grilled meats for Independence Day. It would have been a safe move and no one would’ve been the wiser. A lovely spatchco*ck brick chicken with lemon, fresh herbs, and butter on the grill came to mind, but I needed something that screamed A-M-E-R-I-C-A and had an interesting tale to tell. I was feverishly searching for the edible version of Uncle Sam, for crying out loud!
I called upon The Oracle (Google), and hit the pavement (keyboard). Apple pie kept coming up. But, I don’t bake. It’s too exact and reminds me of science and I avoid it like doing my income taxes. This would be the first pie I ever formulated and baked on my own. As such, I stewed on this for days and thought of a few ways to tweak the traditional recipe. But, as a writer, I had to put in my due diligence and do my homework on the topic. I wanted to learn where the apple pie originated and when it was first served. I was a bit disheartened to learn it wasn’t created by a sweet little granny in one of the 13 colonies.
My hunt ended when I read that the first mention of a pie resembling the beloved apple was in a book by English author Geoffrey Chaucer, circa 1381. I found an excerpt from one of Chaucer’s books listing the main ingredients of the primitive version. Like a crazed gastro forensic pathologist, I was translating words like “reyfons” and “perys” from Old English into Modern English. Once I figured out what the hell I was actually reading, I realized I was on to something. It is eerily similar to a mincemeat pie, with the exception that the filling is not dried and candied. I thought I could even improve on this very peculiar version of the iconic dessert sometimes called “The 1381 Apple Pie.” The original recipe called for a coffyn or “coffin” crust. Inedible medieval Tupperware would be the best description of this crust. To me, the crust is just as important as the pie filling. It’s as critical as that special hoagie roll is to a Geno’s cheesesteak.
So, it was at this point that I knew, as a stranger to baking, I was in over my head, but there was no turning back. This was either going to end well or be a “dog’s dinner” in the words of the modern day Chaucer, Chef Gordon Ramsey. I’m a meat guy and I stay in my lane when it comes to various cooking techniques, and I’m fine with that. This is why, with all the recipes for pie crusts out there, I needed to recruit a seasoned baker who knew their way around dough. I called upon Lynne Mazzeo to show me the ropes and give me a lesson in Pie Crust 101. Having sampled many of her fruit pies and cakes, I knew I was in good hands. She passed on her pie crust recipe to me and I will pay it forward by passing it on to you.
Here’s what you will need to make my version of the 1381 Apple Pie.
Pie Filling
(5) Granny Smith apples, peeled and cut into 8 slices
(1) Bartlett pear, peeled and cut into 8 slices
(15) prunes, halved
¾ cup golden raisins
2 heaping tbsp orange fig spread
½ cup walnuts, chopped (optional)
¼ tsp ground cinnamon
Pinch ground cardamon
Pinch ground allspice
¼ tsp sea salt
3 tbsp unsalted butter, melted
Pie Crust (makes enough for top and bottom crust)
2½ cups all-purpose flour
1 tsp sea salt
2 tbsp sugar
2 sticks (8 oz), unsalted butter, cut into small cubes and frozen
½ cup water, ice cold
Whipped Cream
10 oz whipping cream
Pinch ground cinnamon
1 tbsp honey
sugar (to taste)
1 tsp vanilla extract
Add all ingredients to the bowl of a stand mixer. Whisk until stiff peaks form.
Preparation
It is recommended that you use a food processor to mix your ingredients for a more consistent pie crust, but if you don’t have access to one, a good old-fashioned hand dough blender will work just fine. Pulse dry ingredients together first. Gradually add in frozen butter cubes and cold water, a little at a time. After all butter cubes are evenly dispersed throughout and coated with dry ingredients, form the mixture into (2) 5-inch discs. Refrigerate for an hour. Roll discs into crusts large enough for a standard sized, 11-inch, cast-iron skillet. Crust should be no thicker than 1/8 inch. Butter the inside of the skillet. Lay pie crust inside. Fill crust with mixture of filling ingredients. Place second rolled pie crust over top of fruit, crimp the edges of both crusts, and poke holes through the top crust to vent. Sprinkle top crust with sugar and bake at 365 degrees for approximately 1 hour and 20 minutes or until your pie crust is a nice golden brown.
